Tuesday, 30 August 2016

Finishing My Cool Men's Sunglasses Shirt

If you follow my Instagram account, you might remember that I shared an image from Simply Moderne magazine featuring Luke Haynes. What really captivated me was his shirt, I instantly thought it was just the thing for my DH, so I ordered the sunglasses fabric in both blue and pink. I know, I know - I have so much fabric in my stash that it seems ridiculous to keep looking for excuses to buy more, but sometimes inspiration just strikes!

First thing I had to do was draft a pattern for my DH from one of his old shirts. He was due for a clear out anyhow, so I picked a shirt I knew fit well and set about copying the pattern on my pattern board.
Next was deciding on the inside cuff fabric. Luke used a kind of brick fabric which I couldn't find, so I raided my stash...

I quite likes this cat print, but was pretty sure my DH would draw the line at cats, eventually I settled on a black and white mottled print which I forget to photograph. 
Then I ironed down the shirt standard fusible, 
'fussy' cutting to get the best coverage of the sunglass pictures
And then it was time to start sewing the shirt together
It may seem odd to be sewing a shirt when I have a wedding dress to make, but I'm the kind of person who ordinarily prefers to go at my own slow pace - but only really performs when under pressure. It's just how it is. If the wedding dress wasn't a pressing emergency, I wouldn't have made this shirt for another 6 months (and I still have alterations waiting on WIP chair). It's just the way I work.
Just like the mannequin before it, I gave away my favourite over-locker last year. I was sure I would never need it again. I didn't fancy unpacking the spare in the garage and dusting it off and fine tuning it, so I french seamed the shirt instead. 
I'm a stickler for good collars and cuffs and these are two details me eyes always draw to, so I made sure they were nice and even (you can see the cuff fabric I opted for in the inside collar)
Looking good, if I do say so myself..
Then I lined the button side with a strip of navy blue and stitched down the buttons
Voila! It's done
Now that I am looking at it, I think the cuff needs another button which I will add. But that's a minor detail. I'm very happy to have completed the shirt and am wondering if I really do want a matching one in pink? The idea really pickled me at first, but I don't like the pink anymore - it's too pink for me and I actually think it's a masculine kind of pink (if that makes any sense) so I don't know what I'll do with it. I may yet change my mind. 

Let's see what the DH thinks of it all!!

Sunday, 28 August 2016

Meet My Gorgeous New Quilt 'Dorothea' !

Finished size of Dorothea Wall Hanging 57 x 61 nches

Oh yes, I'm on a roll! Talk about busy - shirts, quilts, wedding dress... and now another quilt pattern. I love releasing my patterns, it feels so good to 'liberate' them from my design books out into the world.

When I designed Dorothea, I  had a romantic vision of naïve flowers scattered across windy hilltops. I love the simple reoccurring flower motifs ..and the possibility of extending this wall quilt into a bed quilt with the addition of lots of windmill blocks was irresistible. 

The pattern is for both styles - the wall quilt and bed quilt , so you don't have to choose between them. 

Originally designed in red and white, for this pattern I have opted for the ever charming green and pink based palette to prevent confusion. So much red and white is difficult to work with in patterns. Of course, the design lends itself to many colour variations, and I might still re-colour it in red and white just to satisfy my love for that pallette :) 
Finished size of Dorothea Bed Quilt 81 x 85 inches

I love sharing what I do with everyone, so before Dorothea hits my shop I'm offering the complete digital pattern at the heavily reduced price of USD $4.80...but only for 48 hours! So like I always say, if you love it, now's the time to snap it up. This discount won't ever be repeated. 
Complete Digital Pattern
Including both Wall Hanging & Bed Quilt Options
USD $4.80 for 48 hours

Wednesday, 24 August 2016

WOW: Drafting the Pattern

WOW= WIPs On Wednesdays
This week I've been drafting up the adjustments made on the calico wedding dress. I've also been visiting fabric shops looking for just the right texture and thickness of dress material. My DD works full time so she isn't able to come with me on these searches. I actually think this may be a good thing - too many options can create confusion and I know what I'm looking for :) 

I've also started my DHs novelty quilt fabric shirt just for fun (and seriously considering making my own so we can look like the perfectly odd couple when we go out for coffee), have finished my detailed sketch for the next Free BOM and have found 3 more patterns ready for release. What is it they say about asking a busy person to get stuff done? I'm flat out!

What's Your WOW?

Tuesday, 23 August 2016

LE: Month By Month: Part 6

This month it's time to focus on the flowers of the third corner vase. By the time I got to vase three I was a bit tired physically from the manual labor of all that hand sewing - but also newly excited. Each new vase is a new possibility of fabric, embellishments and fabric combinations. Yes, I wanted to to look harmonious, but I was also interested in the idea of introducing something new.
What I ended up injecting in vases 3 was romance. Today, as I type up this post I am making my own DDs wedding dress and it all feels like a nice circle of romance because I used a scrap of wedding dress lace for both vases 3 and 4 (above) and this little detail really made an impact.

This quilt is so emotional in that way. It's so intense and busy that you have every possibility to make every little detail special in it's own way. Today I would set aside lace from my own DDs dress, but I guess that will have to wait for another quilt. Fittingly, the lace I found for vases 3 and 4 had belonged to an unknown woman and the polka dolt lace was older than I am - I just loved the feeling of bringing in another unknown element into this quilt and giving life to a scrap of fabric which had once been worn as a wedding dress by an unknown woman over 70 years ago.

Isn't that just the nicest kind of detail? How will you make vase 3 your own?

'Month by Month' is all about sharing the original Love Entwined experience with new makers. On the first Friday of each month (or thereabouts) I'll be re-visiting the blog posts that detailed my ideas, tips and techniques which cover how I went about making each part of the coverlet as well as listing a post archive for new members to browse and read up on. 

Love Entwined is a historic heirloom applique quilt now available as a monthly BOM. You can take part in Love Entwined as a monthly BOM for $9.95 USD per month. You can start any time. Visit my online pattern shop for more info by clicking here and whether you're starting out on a new LE journey or picking up where you left off, be sure to join the Love Entwined Quilt BOM Group.

Wednesday, 17 August 2016

WOW: Custom Fitting Time

WOW = WIPs On Wednesdays
I completed the wedding dress mock up in calico last week and on Saturday I started custom pinning it to my DD as you can see here. The adjustments mean I am going to have to re-align seams in the pleat and all that kind of business. I'll blog more about this process just as soon as I'm over this sewing hurdle. There's a lot to adjust to get the fit adequately tight to hold up the skirt. Today I'm awaiting for the imported lace to arrive by courier so we can move past the lace curtains stage.

It's an exciting time in my household and I'm really enjoying each stitch.

What's Your WOW?

Tuesday, 16 August 2016

The Pinspiration Behind the Dress

It's a fussy business all this wedding dress designing. So many options and ideas -how exactly is a bride to be supposed to narrow it down? I was wondering how my DD was ever going to choose her dress as, after trying on an endless variety, none of them were exactly what she wanted. She's a bit like dresses the way I am with fabric - indecisive. And then the remarkable happened. My other DD found a dress she thought would perfectly suit her..on Pinterest... and our bride to be fell instantly in love with it. Yes, it was 'the one'. And here it is:
Isn't it gorgeous? What I find so incredible is that the minute either of us set eyes on it, we just knew it was the one for her. It's just 'her' if you know what I mean. I couldn't think of a more perfect dress. And she agreed. Phew! So naturally I just assumed she would track down the Pinterest link and find the bridal shop wherever it was in this connected internationally tracked world and provide her measurements and have it made. I mean, why not?

China is why not.

After months of searching, google image tracking and endless web dead ends, it became clear that this image is stolen and is being used to proxy sell dresses for those horrible Chinese factory sweat shop sites.  And I'm sad about it. For one thing, it's a beautiful dress and I would like to acknowledge the bridal shop or label that produced it. For another thing, it has been a painstaking drama tracking down the exact same lace (more on that drama in another post). So much effort and wasted time. 
You'll find sweatshops all over eBay and google offering this dress. But of course, like all the dresses in their gallery, the images are stolen and being used to trick unsuspecting women into sales. There are currently 18 sites online using this exact image to sell a dress they don't have. I can only imagine what arrives in the post for people who buy it.

So with no possibility of buying this exact dress, it was decided that I would make a custom replica. I have had no desire to personally fashion a wedding dress design, I simply want to create the dress my DD wants. It's actually an easy dress to make with the most amount of work on creating an exact fit bodice (as the lace has zero stretch). This is usually overcome with appliqueing the lace motifs on a sheer stretch skin tone or transparent fabric. But for this look, that isn't possible. It will have to be all lace and all perfectly fitted. 

Something I heard in the bridal shops whilst I was viewing fittings was the amount of women who believed that the dresses they were trying on were extraordinarily complicated patterns. Actually, an intermediate seamstress or home sewing hobbyist with confidence in adjusting and fitting bodices would have no trouble making many of the garments. My thoughts on dress patterns are established from a career working in fashion design and industrial pattern making - all the master shapes being used are much like traditional quilting blocks - no one owns them and all design software has every pattern shape required to produce any of the dresses on display. The idea of custom patterns is really a marketing ploy. The patterns are based on very similar models that are tweaked and adjusted. The real expertise and expense comes from the quality of fabrics, laces and handling of them. 

So back to the dress. It's a beautiful bodice that falls into a full formal pleated skirt. It appears that the bodice and skirt have been made separately and joined in these images although it would be possible to create the whole dress in complete lengths rather than splitting the dress in the middle. Given that the lace is overlaid with lace at the seams, this isn't so important although that middle seam is a pet peeve for me and I would have simply had to double my work eliminating it! Luckily for me, this won't be necessary.
The pattern I started with was  Butterick Pattern B5731 which is a copy of Kate Middleton's famous dress. The base body has a lovely shape that can be used to suit numerous formal styles. I saw a copy of that dress in a bridal shop and I can tell you that this pattern is better than some of the versions out there for sale, so if you are after this style of dress, the pattern exists and there's no reason why you can't make it yourself. In fact Craftsy even have an online class on corset making which covers everything you need to know about creating the bodice, so don't be daunted. If you have the time and passion - you can.

In my previous post about constructing this pattern, I complained about the thin sheets it came printed on - a total nightmare to work with. But the pattern itself is just fine and the shape is lovely. In fact the pleated skirt is just what I want. We're even playing around with the idea of a V neck and will see how it looks in person when mocked up. 

We are also flirting with the idea of going all lace all over or changing the skirt to a fluffy one, and I'm open and ready to create anything. As soon as the mock up is completed, the actual details will be steered by the fabrics and their qualities - the stiffness, the fall, the contrast of lace against different textures. All those details will come into play. Personally, I'm entirely confident that the first original dress will triumph and steal and show.

We'll see..

Monday, 15 August 2016

Sweet 2016, Part 7: Celebration Cake

This month the champagne is flowing, the table is laden and everyone is waiting for the silver stand to appear with the Celebration Cake. Be it birthday, anniversary, wedding or just a gathering, every collection of cakes need that extra special something and this month we’re making it! 

Of course, whether you opt for the birdy couple or replace them with candles or other embellishments, the cake can go into style you desire. And now is the time to showcase that spectacular scrap of fabric you’re dying to show in just the right spot or the super cute chocolate print fabric from your stash. 
Now, I have drawn applique shapes in the pattern which I imagined myself drawing directly onto fabric scraps and coloring in with permanent markers or my new fabric crayons and a thin brush...but then I remembered a gorgeous print I picked up years ago, I just knew it would come in handy one day. I think we all have a fabric in the stash like that, don't we?

Like this one:

Did someone say chocolate? I've been waiting to use this fabric for years and now I finally have the perfect project! If you have any scraps like this, now is the time to dust them off.

 And don't they look great beneath my cake?
But I'm getting ahead of myself. Let's start at the top with my birdy couple. I just love birds, they're so cute. I auditioned a few print fabrics for the body and wings before settling on this:
 and drew in the little eyes. I will add a tiny bead later when I can find my bead stash
Now for the cake itself. I had a lovely scrap pale yellow fabric and planned on painting the decorative loops with a very fine brush and my new fabric crayons that I am itching to try out and show off...but it was not to be! My stash got the better of me and I dug out this scrap of sheer lace instead. I just love it for my cake collection.
Whoops, my applique looks a bit lopsided here, don't worry, it's not supposed to be like that!

Here's my 'worksheet' of applique pieces which I've prepped, numbered and placed on top of a light box for easy placement.
And that's it for this month. I can't wait to see how you make the  Celebration Cake all your own!

Understanding the pattern release schedule: anyone can join Sweet 2016 at any time and when they do, they will receive a new block each month from that point onward. The day they receive each new block will depend on the date they signed up and made their first payment. Everyone who starts Sweet 2016, starts at the beginning, Part 1. Specific blocks cannot be purchased out of turn. 

Whenever you choose to start this BOM, be sure to keep us updated on your progress by sharing your work over in our Sweet 2016 BOM Facebook Group, see you there!

'Sweet 2016' is my current Mystery Applique BOM
It's just $3.95 per month
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